The 2026 runways in Milan Fashion Week SS26 made one thing clear: tailoring has been reimagined. This season’s collections balanced craftsmanship, comfort, and quiet luxury, delivering a new kind of elegance that feels effortless, modern, and undeniably wearable.
From oversized jackets to fluid tailoring, Milan’s SS26 shows offered a masterclass in how tailoring is evolving across both menswear and womenswear — softer, lighter, and far more playful than in seasons past.
Soft Structure in SS26 Tailoring
Overview of the Soft Structure Trend
The defining SS26 trend is tailoring that moves. Designers leaned into airy drape, relaxed proportions, and silhouettes designed to flow rather than constrain. Traditional structure softened through fabric and fit, resulting in tailoring that feels intuitive — perfect for daywear and beyond.
This is tailoring for Spring 2026: refined but unfussy, polished without trying too hard.
Influence of 1980s Power Silhouettes
Hints of 1980s power dressing returned, but filtered through modern minimalism. Broad shoulders appeared in blazers and jackets, yet remained sculptural rather than stiff. The result was a confident silhouette that feels assertive yet understate — power without excess.
Fabric Choices for Movement and Drape
Fabric selection was key to this shift. Designers favoured silk, linen, lightweight wool blends, and soft knits to create movement. These materials allowed suits and tailored separates to feel breathable and relaxed, offering a welcome contrast to the rigidity of previous seasons.
Key Tailoring Pieces for Spring 2026
Jackets: From Classic to Modern
The oversized jacket dominated the runway — worn loose, belted, or layered with shirting and oversized shirts. Cropped styles added a playful note, while longer cuts delivered drama without heaviness.
Leather also made its mark, with leather jackets adding texture and edge to otherwise minimal looks.
Suits that Embrace Fluidity
The SS26 suit is all about ease. Wide-leg trousers, soft pleats, and relaxed tailoring replaced sharp, restrictive cuts. These suits felt adaptable — designed to transition seamlessly from work to evening, from structure to softness.
Layering Techniques for Versatility
Layering emerged as one of the biggest trends shaping SS26. Tailored vests, lightweight outerwear, and even slip dresses layered beneath blazers brought depth and versatility to the runway. It’s a styling approach that feels modern, practical, and personal.
Color and Material Trends
Pastel Palettes in Tailored Fashion
Soft pastel hues dominated Milan — think powder blue, pistachio, blush, and pale yellow. These shades softened tailoring’s traditionally serious tone, injecting optimism and lightness into SS26 collections.
Textured Fabrics: Leather and Beyond
Texture elevated even the most minimal looks. Designers explored denim, lightweight leather, and tactile knits, proving that simplicity doesn’t mean boring. The focus was on handcraft and detail — subtle finishes that reward closer inspection.
Outerwear Essentials: Trench Coats and More
Trench coats were a standout across the SS26 shows, often oversized and fluid. Tailored coats from houses like Max Mara, Fendi, and Bottega Veneta reinforced Milan’s mastery of outerwear, blending practicality with timeless sophistication.
Designer Highlights from Milan
Saint Laurent’s Approach to Tailoring
Saint Laurent delivered razor-sharp elegance with softened edges. Elongated blazers, fluid trousers, and monochrome palettes embodied modern power dressing — confident, sensual, and quietly commanding.
Dior’s Vision for Resort 2026
Dior’s Resort 2026 tailoring leaned into refinement and romance. Sculptural jackets paired with flowing trousers showcased the house’s ability to balance structure with softness, creating standout looks rooted in tradition yet firmly modern.
Louis Vuitton’s Innovative Outerwear
At Louis Vuitton, tailoring blurred into statement outerwear. Architectural coats and layered silhouettes redefined how tailoring functions in contemporary wardrobes, offering bold yet wearable runway moments.
Other Standout Names and Trends from Milan
Designers including Gucci, Ferragamo, Jil Sander, Loewe, Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Dries Van Noten, and Victoria Beckham reinforced Milan’s commitment to relaxed sophistication. Across collections, the emphasis remained on fluid fits, thoughtful layering, and tailoring that prioritises how clothing feels — not just how it looks.
Final Thoughts: Trends Shaping Tailoring for 2026
The trends from Milan Fashion Week SS26 signal a future where tailoring is no longer rigid or ceremonial. Instead, it’s expressive, adaptable, and deeply human. From fluid tailoring to elevated outerwear, these collections prove that modern elegance lies in ease.
For 2026, tailoring isn’t about standing out loudly — it’s about standing confidently, with grace, intention, and impeccable design.
Until next runway,
Riley Westonfield
Fashion Weekly
