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Fashion Weekly
How to keep straightened hair smooth in humid weather

A straight finish that looks polished at 8am in Brisbane can be kinked and puffy by lunch. Humidity gets the blame, and it earns some of it. The rest tends to come from damp roots and from sections that get touched before they have cooled.

Why humid air undoes a straight finish

Hair holds its shape partly through hydrogen bonds inside each strand. Heat from a straightener breaks those bonds, and they re-form in a straight line as the hair cools. Water breaks them too. On a muggy day, hair pulls moisture from the air and the bonds reset in their natural pattern. The outer cuticle lifts as this happens. That lifted cuticle is the frizz you see in the mirror.

Porous hair goes first. Bleached lengths soak up water faster than healthy hair, and so do ends that have spent a summer in salt water and sun. It's why the ends can puff up while the crown stays flat.

Damp hair is its own problem. If any water is left when the plates close, the heat turns it to steam instead of setting the strand, and steam roughens the cuticle. A faint hiss from the plates is the giveaway. That section needs more time with the dryer.

Check the dew point before you style. The Bureau of Meteorology lists it with each city's latest observations. A reading near 20°C or higher is the thick air of a Sydney February or a Darwin wet season, and on those mornings a loose straight finish rarely makes it through the commute.

What to look for in a straightener before summer humidity sets in

Rule out patchy heat first. A section that comes out rougher than its neighbours will frizz before them, so the plates need to hold an even temperature from tip to hinge and keep it when they close on a thick section. A high number on the dial is no help if the plates cool the moment they touch hair.

How hot depends on your hair. Fine or bleached hair sets at lower temperatures and scorches easily, while coarse hair needs more heat to set at all. If yours sits at either end, a tool with a few settings lets you find the level your hair takes and stay there.

Plate width follows length. Narrow plates of about 15mm get close to the roots on a fringe or a pixie cut. Around 25mm covers most hair from chin to shoulder, and it's narrow enough to curl with. Long or thick hair goes faster with plates of 40mm or more, and fewer passes mean less total heat on each strand. If you're comparing widths side by side, the best range of hair straighteners at ghd lists the plate size for each model, which makes it easier to match one to your hair.

Get one with an automatic shut-off if you style in a rush before work.

A step-by-step routine for a finish that lasts

Give yourself time for the first step. It's the one people rush.

  1. Dry hair completely, including the roots and the nape, which dry last. If the nape still feels cool, it is still damp.
  2. Apply a heat protectant made for flat irons and let it dry before you start.
  3. Blow-dry with a paddle brush and the nozzle pointed down the length. This flattens the cuticle before the straightener does any work, so you need fewer passes.
  4. Work in sections about 2–3cm wide. One slow pass per section sets hair better than several quick ones and puts less heat through it.
  5. Leave each section alone until it cools. Hair sets as it cools, so a warm section bent by a hand or a clip keeps the bend.
  6. Smooth a pea-sized amount of anti-humidity serum or light oil through the mid-lengths and ends. Keep it off the roots, where it weighs hair down by mid-afternoon.

Second-day hair holds a straight style better in humid weather than freshly washed hair, since a little natural oil slows moisture absorption. Once you're out the door, keep your hands out of it. Each touch adds warmth and moisture from your skin. If the front pieces drop, straighten just those instead of running the plates over your whole head again.

What to expect from a straight finish in a humid summer

In a humid Australian summer, a straight finish lasts a few hours, even with good technique. Straightening every day makes that shorter over time. Repeated heat leaves hair more porous, and porous hair takes on water faster.

On the muggiest days, straighten as usual and then pull it into a sleek low bun or ponytail before you leave. Hair that is smooth and tied back stays that way well past lunch.

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