A common question many often ask is what the difference between Made to Measure, Custom and Bespoke actually is. At George & King every client has the ability to design a look that is individual to them, reflects their personality and enables them to stand out from the crowd. Style aside, make you garment personal!
Here we breakdown the difference between these three terms so you can flash your expertise the next time you're after something a little more you.
MADE TO MEASURE
A Made to Measure (MTM) company will take the suiting pattern and modify the standard jacket block. The tailor will then tweak the standard block patterns to the specifications of your body shape. At George & King roughly 20 body measurements are taken during your first fitting. This includes sleeve length, jacket length, shoulder width and more.
Then the style concierge will pass on your choices and measurements to the master tailor. You won't get a chance to meet this tailor as the suits are hand crafted offshore. After 4 weeks when the garment is in-store, the second fitting will take place. If it still needs minor adjustments, this will be done locally and the final product will be ready within a few days.
When you decide to go MTM with George & King the client will have a one hour fitting. Going custom allows you to add small details and personal touches to your suit. The style concierge will help the client choose the perfect fabric, and talk the client through the customisation options to suit (excuse the pun) their body type and style preference, choices such as: how many pockets and pocket placement, how many buttons and what type, single or double breasted, the lining details, the lapel thicknes and more.The options are endless which is why this is a benefit of going custom. You get to choose and create!
Bespoke is defined as a handmade garment or item where the pattern is cut completely from scratch. This includes a first fitting so the tailor is able to adjust the suit right at the beginning stages. As a result, you have limitless options for the design of the suit because there is nothing to build on or adjust.
A pattern has everything to do with shape of the garment, how it sits with you, how it drapes on you, how it moves with you. With a Bespoke piece, a new pattern is created for each individual wearer. There is no modifying of base patterns because this could mean that the tailor could miss any of the individual quirks of the wearer’s body.
There are also many more fittings required with a bespoke suit. First is the skeleton baste fitting, second the forward fitting, third the fin bar fin fitting, all being done at different stages of tailoring. Then there are multiple other fittings to tweak the feel, the design. Talented tailors build on top each fitting. Bespoke is also handmade, not machine made. This means between 50-100 man hours can be placed into a single suit. MTM will have approximately only 20 man hours put into it in comparison.
A Bespoke suit can cost you anywhere from $5,000 to $50,000; dependent on fabric and quality of your chosen master tailor. A MTM is a little less damaging to the wallet, with George & King suits costing upwards of $700 and taking approximately 4-6 weeks to create.
George & King suits are handcrafted using 100% wool. Our business bundles, purchasing a second pair of pants and a few custom shirts will get you on your way to creating the perfect capsule wardrobe.
Words: Hannah Croly
Photos: Courtesy of Joe Cheng. Dappertude Event 2017